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Friday, June 29, 2012

June 7 - 22: Portugal and the Balearic Islands, Spain


Our last two weeks were split between a quick one-week stay in Portugal with friends from London, and almost a week of sailing with Ace’s mom, step-dad, and our friendly French captain in the beautiful Balearic Islands.

Portugal started with a one-night stopover in Lisbon, which basically consisted of a 4-hour blitz of the city’s key sites (the traditional tram ride up to the castle and a quick walk around the city).  It was worth the visit, but one doesn’t need more than a couple days for a proper tour of Lisbon. The most exciting part of our stay was probably watching the world’s most conspicuous pick-pockets at work in the tram – for a fair comparison, think of Raph (who is 6’4’’) wearing high heels trying to hide in a crowd of midgets. Needless to say that they were unsuccessful and got kicked off the tram.

The rest of our stay in Portugal was in Ericeira, a nice little European surf town about 40 minutes from Lisbon. Only if such a place existed just outside of Montreal! Two friends (JP and Katie) visited us for the week and we rented a house just outside of town, which was a little rough around the edges (everything seemed to leak, the pool hadn’t been cleaned in 6 months, and it was decorated with freaky dolls) but the property manager was very helpful and everything worked out well. We made good use of the European barbecue (translation: pain in the butt – what’s wrong with gas anyways?), took advantage of the dirt-cheap wine (the most expensive bottle in some stores was 4 euros), had a couple pool parties, and went on what is hopefully going to be the sketchiest horseback riding trip of our lives (fortunately, JP’s foot can take on a horse’s hoof).

Ericeira itself was much more developed than the typical surf spots that we’ve visited in Central America, which takes away some, although not all of the charm.  There are about 8 breaks within a 10-kilometer stretch, so it took a little while to find the best spots (and the clean ones – Ace and Katie both got a leg covered in oil slick… now we know what it must feel like to be a bird caught in an oil spill). Once we found the best break (Ribeira d’Ilhas), Ace unfortunately only got in one day of good waves because the surf was either too small, too big, or he was too hungover J. Can’t complain though - all in all, good times with good friends!

After Portugal, the next part of our trip was a relaxed week sailing through the Balearic Islands with Ace’s mom and step-dad. We met them in Ibiza (where we got a quick but very insufficient glimpse of the nightlife), then made our way to Mallorca and Menorca, stopping at some pristine beaches and bays, as well as cute port towns on the way. Our favorite spots were an untouched beach in Ibiza (we were the only ones moored there for the night), and Mahon in Menorca, a port town where we had a delicious dinner and spent a day strolling around. A typical day on the boat involved lots of reading, a swim, a siesta (or two), a history lesson from our captain, a yummy home-cooked meal from Ace’s mom, and lots of laughs over a couple glasses of wine or champagne and some foie gras.

It’s very interesting to discover new places from the sea, providing a different perspective – in certain cases to what extent these islands have been developed with such poor taste, but mostly how beautiful the coastline is from the water.

Next up: mainland Spain, starting with Barcelona – we’re very excited! Mmmm… all those tapas!

P.S. A few people mentioned that they tried to post a comment on our first posts but had to sign up first…we’ve changed the settings so it’s easy to do now without signing up.

P.S.S. We’ve added a link of a cool video of Ace paragliding in Turkey, check it out!

Video - Ace Paragliding in Ölüdeniz

Photos - June 7-22: Portugal and the Balearic Islands, Spain

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

May 28 - June 7: The Turkish Mediterranean Coast


Turkey has continued to impress us. We covered lots of ground over the last couple weeks, with stops in Antalya, Kas, Ölüdeniz, Pamukkale and Bodrum. Mais avant de commencer, il faut souligner que notre dernière semaine a été marquée par un événement encore plus magnifique: la naissance de nos deux nièces jumelles! Welcome to parenthood, Marie and Frank. On a vraiment hâte de les rencontrer!

The southern region was very different from what we’d seen so far – but in an equally appealing way. While we loved the cultural aspect of Istanbul and Cappadocia, the south felt a bit more balanced and definitely had a more typical European beach vibe. As an example, instead of 3 mosques competing simultaneously for the loudest prayer 6 times a day, you only hear one much more subtle hymn, and less often. Gen could even walk around comfortably in shorts without disapproving looks being sent her way!  And if you’re lucky, you might even cross a couple random hippies jamming to Stairway to Heaven on a lonely rock halfway up a hill in the middle of nowhere. Priceless J.

Antalya and Kas were very charming coastal towns, with narrow streets and cute little restaurants and bars spread throughout. A bit quiet because we were early in the tourist season – but that said, we were happy with our timing when we got to Ölüdeniz, which was swamped with sunburnt British tourists. Luckily, this was compensated by the most amazing 30 minutes of paragliding off of a 2000-meter cliff… they say it’s one of the top three spots in the world, which we just might believe. Ace’s pilot was even crazy enough to let him fly the thing… luckily he’s well versed in aviation (mmmm…. says Gen…and maybe Ace too). Next was Pamukkale, renowned for its incredible travertines. Check out the pictures! Last but not least, we finished with Bodrum, a chic, trendy town that the Turks compare to St. Barts and St. Tropez. Maybe they’re pushing it, but the great nightlife vibe was a perfect note for our last days before moving on.

Final impressions: Getting around in Turkey is as easy as any country we’ve traveled in. The country is clean and the water is a beautiful clear blue. It’s culturally rich, and for the price the food is probably as good as we’ve ever had – with variety ranging from what might be the best burger in memory (by far!) to succulent seafood (Ace even enjoyed the escargot). And finally, one can’t help but be surprised by how genuine and friendly the locals are. Overall, the biggest flaw we’ve noted is the lack of tourist promotion for their country!

Et maintenant en français… sur demande spéciale de Max ;) La dernière semaine et demie de voyage a su nous épaté sans arrêt (avec photos à l’appui) : un resto après l’autre de bouffe incroyable à Antalya et Bodrum (mmm… de la crème glacée Mövenpick, un bon burger au cheddar et des moules au pesto… impressionnant pour des non-adeptes des fruits de mer comme nous); l’eau turquoise aussi transparente que du verre et la qualité de nos talents de kayakistes de mer hors pair à Kas; des vues à couper le souffle du haut de notre parapente à 2000 mètres dans les airs et un hôtel qui ressemble à un jeu d’enfants chez McDonald à Ölüdeniz; des terrasses aussi blanches que neige et un coucher de soleil digne des plus beaux à Pamukkale; et, pour la cerise sur le sundae, un petit village avec une tournée des bars qui rivalise Montréal à Bodrum (peut-être même pour la prochaine fête de Shannon – surtout pour nous faire pardonner pour le fait qu’on a manqué les deux derniers ;).

En fin de compte, notre seul problème est que la Turquie a mis la barre très haute pour le reste de notre voyage! Et ce n’est que le début… Reste à voir ce qui nous attend au Portugal! 

Photos - May 28-June 7: The Turkish Mediterranean Coast

Top Picks - Turkey


Note: For the restaurants and hotels, keep in mind that we’re trying to manage a budget (although not always succeeding!) – but these nonetheless impressed based on Montreal standards.

  • Blue Mosque in Istanbul
  • Mikla rooftop bar in Istanbul (the restaurant is supposed to be top notch too)
  • Hot air balloon in Cappadocia
  • Selime Monestary in Cappadocia
  • Pudding Marina Residence in Antalya
  • Manzara Restaurant in Kas (at Hotel Cachet, ask for the waiters’ recommendations)
  • Paragliding in Ölüdeniz
  • Butterfly Valley in Ölüdeniz (take a water taxi directly there to avoid the swarms of tourists)
  • Pub crawl in Bodrum
  • Wine & Burger Bar in Bodrum
  • Orfoz Restaurant in Bodrum